Dal Baht Power 24 Hour, What Goes Up Must…

A.B.C. to Bamboo

“I can’t believe the trek is over,” one of my trekking mates said.

Oh, it’s not over. We have to go back down the mountain now, descend the 4,130m we just climbed. And going down is just as hard, if not harder than going up. I came to the realization during my 14 day trek that going up is hard on the muscles while going down is hard on the joints.

The Soundtrack of Descending: Mountainous Moves

Waking up at Annapurna Base Camp on this morning, revealed a clear, blue sky with big, majestic mountains. So those past six days, with all the trials and tribulations and challenges of hiking up 4,130m, proved to be worth it. A.B.C. is situated at the bottom of the Annapurna Mountain Range, right in the middle so, again, it feels like you are in a bowl, surrounded by mountains. And the mountains are so big you can’t help but feel like a tiny ant. It was a humbling experience.

After last night’s fresh snow on the mountain, everyone was in a playful mood. Groups could be seen throwing snowballs at one another down the mountain while others were running and sliding down the slope. There was less and less snow the lower we got, and the weather quickly warmed up as we passed back through the bamboo forest.

It was a very strange feeling to wake up in the shadow of the Annapurna Mountain Range, bundled up to combat the cold at that higher elevation and making snow angels in the freshly felled snow, only to walk down to a lower elevation where the mountains look, smell and sound like a tropical jungle.

 

Bamboo to Jhinu (Hot Springs)

Everything from here on down feels like it moved so fast. One minute we were at A.B.C., surrounded by these incredibly large and humbling mountains, the next minute we were back in a jungle, and then all of a sudden we were down below 2,000m, heading to a local hot spring.

The hot springs in Jhinu are right by a big, rushing river. With two pools, there’s plenty of space for trekkers, porters and guides to all splash around together. And the springs themselves were incredibly, well, hot. I honestly did not expect a natural hot spring to feel like a hot tub but these did.

After such an incredible (and exhausting) journey up to A.B.C., finishing off the trek (we only had a day and a half to go from Jhinu back to Pokhara) with a visit to the hot springs was a very special way of ending the journey. It was nice to see all the porters and guides having fun in the water with one another, and the springs felt amazing on the now, eight-day sore muscles.

Back to Pokhara

The final two days of the trek were pretty uneventful. The A.B.C. trek took us a different way down the mountain so we had different views to entertain us as we trekked along. At this point though, I was pretty sick (I developed a sinus infection at A.B.C. and was blowing snot rockets the whole way down the mountain) so by the time we passed the hot springs, and there were no more promises of amazing views, I was ready to get off the mountain. Having two blisters at this point and getting bitten by three leeches as well didn’t help matters.

While the trek was challenging (I definitely had no idea what I was getting myself into) and, especially towards the end as I got sicker and sicker, had more and more bug bites, and slept less and less, I think I should have hated the experience. I should have been miserable, especially during the last three days. My muscles definitely hated me (again, I learned I’m not as fit as I like to think I am). But I was happy. And pleased. And proud.

Hiking the Himalayas is something I’ve always wanted to do. Probably ever since seeing the movie “Vertical Limit” in 2001. I know. But after almost 15 years of wanting this experience, I’ve done it. And even though, two weeks later, I’m still recovering (my sinus infection turned into a cold which I just got over and I’m still trying to heal the infected bug bites that I got on the mountain, I would do it again in a heartbeat. I would do it differently. I’m an experienced trekker now after all. But I would do it again.

So… Everest here I come!

My A.B.C. Experience Summed Up Like A MasterCard Commercial

10 days on the mountain
3,500 steps climbed in one day
160kms traversed (approximately)
4,130m climbed
19 “bridges” crossed
7 Dal Bhat lunches (Dal Baht power, 24 hours as the locals say)
3 sunrises
1 waterfall swim
1 hot spring
3 monkey sightings
2 mule crossings
3 goat crossings
1 bamboo forest
1 rhododendron forest
53 unknown bug bites
3 leech bites
2 blisters
2 rainstorms
1 hailstorm
1 snowstorm
1 snowball fight
2 snow angels
9 sleepless nights
1 sinus infection
2 glasses of whiskey

Dal Baht Power 24 Hour, Summit Day aka A.B.C.…

Good lord what a day this was! Annapurna Base Camp sits at 4,130m, (the highest we were climbing) and what a mission it was to get there. “Summit” day was one of the most challenging days yet, not because it was 3,500 steep stone steps, but because we hit some interesting weather along the way that really tested our desire to make it to our end goal.

The Soundtrack of Summiting: Dig Deep

The day started early as we were expecting it to take about eight hours to get to our final destination. The first part of the day involved crossing quite a few “bridges.” I honestly think the last time I ran across a bunch of rocks to get to the other side (there’s a joke in there somewhere), was when I was 12 years old playing in the creek behind my parents’ house. And even then, it was a creek I was running across not a river with gallons of rushing water per minute that could sweep you away at any moment. It was a solid reminder of how much more respect nature deserves from us.

The views throughout the first part of the day were exactly what I was expecting when I signed up for this adventure. The snowy mountain pass was not too far off in the distance with water from the river rushing loudly beside us as we trekked along.

Everyone seemed to be in a pretty joyous mood as we were passing through all this humbling beauty. The porters even took time to play on the snowy mountainside, climbing up the hill beside the path to slide back down the icy pass.

The weather started to change after lunch though and, that in itself is a pretty incredible thing to witness. From big blue skies one minute to dark grey clouds rolling in over the mountains, completely changing the landscape and sobering up the mood of the morning.

As the heavy clouds rolled in, we prepared ourselves for an unpleasant final two hours in the trek.

And those last two hours, with the rain coming down so hard we could barely see the path in front of us, were very unpleasant. I was cold from the weather but hot from all the layers and from trekking. It was slippery pretty much the whole way up and the snow that we were walking on would give way beneath our feet, making us fall through in spots. It was a slow moving and a very long two hours.

When we finally made it to base camp, the rain changed to snow. And there was nothing to see. The clouds were still too thick and heavy. Tragic, I know. But if there is one thing I learned from this experience, it’s that weather on the mountains is entirely unpredictable. And I am nowhere near as outdoorsy as I like to think I am.

Thank goodness though, after we all made it to the top and warmed up in the dining hall with hot chocolate (yes, hot chocolate at 4,130m) the mountains had one more surprise in store for us. The clouds were dissipating. And we would get a first glimpse of what we had worked so hard to see over the past six days. The Annapurna Mountain Range.

That first glimpse was pretty mind-blowing, even with the leftover greyness in the sky from the storm. But it did not compare to what was in store for us the following morning and even that night when the stars came out. The constellations were all upside down from what I am used to, and there were so many stars in the night sky. As well, the stars just seemed to stop where the mountains “covered” the rest of the sky. It was as if we were in a little bubble on earth.

Dal Baht Power 24 Hour, To Annapurna Base Camp…

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… No amount of squats can prepare you for the Annapurna Base Camp (A.B.C.) trek. Looking back on my two-week trek, I definitely went into that experience unprepared and completely unaware about what it would entail. That being said, I would do it again in a heartbeat.

The Soundtrack of Tadapani: Moon Mountain

The views throughout the A.B.C. trek are absolutely incredible. From panoramic mountain views to glorious sunrises, from a rhododendron forest to a bamboo forest, and the incredible geometrical “steps” up the side of the mountains that support the plantings from the local farming communities, A.B.C. awarded some of the most awe-inspiring views.

Each day on the mountain also provided new challenges to overcome and new beauty to look forward to. Here are the stories from those two weeks.

Pokhara to Tikhe Dhunga

The trek to Base Camp began in the tourist town of Lakeside Pokhara. After three days in the dusty madness of Kathmandu, the calmness of Lakeside Pokhara was a welcomed relief. Situated on the bank of the lake with beautiful sunsets, the Annapurna Mountain Range can be seen in the distance on clear days, reminding tourists of what is to come or what they just conquered. And after a horrendously long and bumpy bus ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara, a walk along the lake to watch the sun set was needed.

From Pokhara we took a van up and around the winding roads of the mountains, with a quick stop at a beautiful Tibetan refugee monastery, to get to our hike’s starting point of Nayapul.

This first day of hiking was fairly easy, especially in comparison to what was awaiting us the next day. Although, since we were still at a lower elevation, it was very hot. After a few hours of walking slowly uphill, we passed by a waterfall where three young boys from a local village could be heard playing and fishing.

A quick dip in the waterfall looked very inviting so our group hiked on down to the waterfall. That was probably the best decision we made. That waterfall was one of the most refreshing swims I’ve ever had. And with a crowd of people to watch them now, the boys stopped fishing and one of them leaped off from the top of the waterfall into the pool below, while the other two scrambled down the rocks to join him in the water.

Stopping shortly thereafter for a Dal Baht lunch, we could see dark clouds rolling in over the mountains, signaling to us that the weather was about to change. And what a change it was! From the hot, sunniness of the morning, the sky quickly got angry and opened up releasing a fury of hailstones. Fortunately, we weren’t too far from our rest stop for the evening, so we only had to run up a few steps for cover.

Stairway to Ghorepani

One of the things you will probably hear from anyone who has done an Annapurna trek is how many stairs there are. Seriously though, it’s neverending. And because it’s on the side of a mountain, each step is of varying height making the climb even more challenging. Some steps are big, some steps are small, some are cracked and some are wiggly. But all in all, they’re steep. And the steepest, most challenging day of steps was the second day of our journey. No easing into it. Just start climbing!

Local lore says that there are 3,500 steps during this leg of the trek. A guide counted them once. I think he was lowballing that number so as not to discourage the trekkers.

The only encouraging break from the steps is, halfway up to Upper Ghorepani you get the first amazing glimpse of the snowy peak of Annapurna South. I mean, it does take 1,750 steps to get that first glimpse, and even then its only visible on a clear day. But then you only have another 1,750 steps to go. And hopefully, not too many mules are heading downwards, needing to get by, because there are some pretty narrow, tight spots along the route.

Poon Hill

So I would be lying if I told you the steps got better after that “Stairway to Ghorepani.” They do get less intense (for the most part) and, personally, even just after that one day of climbing, I felt stronger so the climbing did (sort of) become easier.

After the previous day’s climb, I would have been quite happy to never see a stone step again in my life (honestly it was exhausting and no, I am not being dramatic). But with the promise of a beautiful sunrise at Poon Hill, I found myself climbing, yet again, more steps. This time at 4:30 a.m. Because… You know… Sunrise.

It was actually pretty cool doing that trek in the darkness of the early morning hours. Little headlamp specks could be seen dotting their way up the mountain, looking like stars that had fallen from above to guide the way, along with the light from the moon. As the dark night sky started to fade away into the first greys of the morning light, a sense of urgency washed over me.

I did not wake up at 4:10 a.m. to still be walking up steps when the sun shone its bright little face over the mountains.

I made it though. With plenty of time to spare.

I was fortunate as well to be one of the first few people to get up there so, I had the pleasure of experiencing a calmness at the top that quickly disappeared as the rest of the trekkers made their way up. Poon Hill is a destination for many trekkers. Some simply do Poon Hill because it is a shorter four to five-day trek, while most add it in as a side stop on their way to A.B.C.  Once the sun is really close to rising over the mountains, Poon Hill is covered with trekkers who are there for the morning show (and possibly a cup of joe, a nice surprise to drink at the top).

The sunrise truly was spectacular though. There is a beautiful view from Poon Hill of the whole mountain range with snowy peaks visible in the distance and the wind whipping the snow around making the peaks look like soft serve ice cream cones. The sun popping up over the mountains provided for some stunning contrasts between light and dark and accentuated the blues of the surrounding mountains and sky.

Ghorepani to Tadapani

After the must-see sunrise at Poon Hill, we headed back down to Ghorepani for breakfast before continuing on to our next destination at Tadapani, known for its panoramic views of the mountains.

The hike to Tadapani was a lot more pleasant than the Stairway to Ghorepani. It was more of a steady increase and decrease in elevation and not as steep. This hike also took us through a rhododendron forest which is one of the most interesting things I’ve ever seen.

The trees themselves were twisted and warped and covered in moss. Not many trees were blooming while we were there but the few that did have the red and pink flowers on them were stunning. With the snowy mountains visible in the background, this hike was surreal for me. There’s a bit of a disconnect between seeing the mountains in the background, mountains that aren’t that far from where you are, and then walking through the eerie forest of rhododendrons, followed by hiking alongside cool rivers and through villages and farms.

Chhomrong to Himalaya

The route from Chhomrong to Himalaya was a beautiful and hot one. The first part of the day was completely out in the open, with no cover from the sun until we reached the village of Bamboo where, you guessed it, a bamboo forest provided cover from the hot, hot sun.

The bamboo forest was quite the sight to see. Tall stalks of green bamboo shot up amidst the old, warped rhododendron trees. With a waterfall on the opposite mountain, cascading down from the mist above, it was hard to believe how different the environment could be from one spot to the next.

We officially hit 2,900m in elevation. It was noticeably chilly up here and, with the proximity to the waterfalls, the cold was a damp one that got into my bones.

It took us this long to get here but we were finally at our last stop before trekking our way up to A.B.C. Although at this point the days had started melding into one and it was hard to remember where we were even just two nights ago.