Author: <span>Courtney Smith</span>

Adventures

Dal Baht Power 24 Hour, Summit Day aka A.B.C.…

Good lord what a day this was! Annapurna Base Camp sits at 4,130m, (the highest we were climbing) and what a mission it was to get there. “Summit” day was one of the most challenging days yet, not because it was 3,500 steep stone steps, but because we hit some interesting weather along the way that really tested our desire to make it to our end goal.

The Soundtrack of Summiting: Dig Deep

The day started early as we were expecting it to take about eight hours to get to our final destination. The first part of the day involved crossing quite a few “bridges.” I honestly think the last time I ran across a bunch of rocks to get to the other side (there’s a joke in there somewhere), was when I was 12 years old playing in the creek behind my parents’ house. And even then, it was a creek I was running across not a river with gallons of rushing water per minute that could sweep you away at any moment. It was a solid reminder of how much more respect nature deserves from us.

The views throughout the first part of the day were exactly what I was expecting when I signed up for this adventure. The snowy mountain pass was not too far off in the distance with water from the river rushing loudly beside us as we trekked along.

Everyone seemed to be in a pretty joyous mood as we were passing through all this humbling beauty. The porters even took time to play on the snowy mountainside, climbing up the hill beside the path to slide back down the icy pass.

The weather started to change after lunch though and, that in itself is a pretty incredible thing to witness. From big blue skies one minute to dark grey clouds rolling in over the mountains, completely changing the landscape and sobering up the mood of the morning.

As the heavy clouds rolled in, we prepared ourselves for an unpleasant final two hours in the trek.

And those last two hours, with the rain coming down so hard we could barely see the path in front of us, were very unpleasant. I was cold from the weather but hot from all the layers and from trekking. It was slippery pretty much the whole way up and the snow that we were walking on would give way beneath our feet, making us fall through in spots. It was a slow moving and a very long two hours.

When we finally made it to base camp, the rain changed to snow. And there was nothing to see. The clouds were still too thick and heavy. Tragic, I know. But if there is one thing I learned from this experience, it’s that weather on the mountains is entirely unpredictable. And I am nowhere near as outdoorsy as I like to think I am.

Thank goodness though, after we all made it to the top and warmed up in the dining hall with hot chocolate (yes, hot chocolate at 4,130m) the mountains had one more surprise in store for us. The clouds were dissipating. And we would get a first glimpse of what we had worked so hard to see over the past six days. The Annapurna Mountain Range.

That first glimpse was pretty mind-blowing, even with the leftover greyness in the sky from the storm. But it did not compare to what was in store for us the following morning and even that night when the stars came out. The constellations were all upside down from what I am used to, and there were so many stars in the night sky. As well, the stars just seemed to stop where the mountains “covered” the rest of the sky. It was as if we were in a little bubble on earth.

Adventures

Dal Baht Power 24 Hour, To Annapurna Base Camp…

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… No amount of squats can prepare you for the Annapurna Base Camp (A.B.C.) trek. Looking back on my two-week trek, I definitely went into that experience unprepared and completely unaware about what it would entail. That being said, I would do it again in a heartbeat.

The Soundtrack of Tadapani: Moon Mountain

The views throughout the A.B.C. trek are absolutely incredible. From panoramic mountain views to glorious sunrises, from a rhododendron forest to a bamboo forest, and the incredible geometrical “steps” up the side of the mountains that support the plantings from the local farming communities, A.B.C. awarded some of the most awe-inspiring views.

Each day on the mountain also provided new challenges to overcome and new beauty to look forward to. Here are the stories from those two weeks.

Pokhara to Tikhe Dhunga

The trek to Base Camp began in the tourist town of Lakeside Pokhara. After three days in the dusty madness of Kathmandu, the calmness of Lakeside Pokhara was a welcomed relief. Situated on the bank of the lake with beautiful sunsets, the Annapurna Mountain Range can be seen in the distance on clear days, reminding tourists of what is to come or what they just conquered. And after a horrendously long and bumpy bus ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara, a walk along the lake to watch the sun set was needed.

From Pokhara we took a van up and around the winding roads of the mountains, with a quick stop at a beautiful Tibetan refugee monastery, to get to our hike’s starting point of Nayapul.

This first day of hiking was fairly easy, especially in comparison to what was awaiting us the next day. Although, since we were still at a lower elevation, it was very hot. After a few hours of walking slowly uphill, we passed by a waterfall where three young boys from a local village could be heard playing and fishing.

A quick dip in the waterfall looked very inviting so our group hiked on down to the waterfall. That was probably the best decision we made. That waterfall was one of the most refreshing swims I’ve ever had. And with a crowd of people to watch them now, the boys stopped fishing and one of them leaped off from the top of the waterfall into the pool below, while the other two scrambled down the rocks to join him in the water.

Stopping shortly thereafter for a Dal Baht lunch, we could see dark clouds rolling in over the mountains, signaling to us that the weather was about to change. And what a change it was! From the hot, sunniness of the morning, the sky quickly got angry and opened up releasing a fury of hailstones. Fortunately, we weren’t too far from our rest stop for the evening, so we only had to run up a few steps for cover.

Stairway to Ghorepani

One of the things you will probably hear from anyone who has done an Annapurna trek is how many stairs there are. Seriously though, it’s neverending. And because it’s on the side of a mountain, each step is of varying height making the climb even more challenging. Some steps are big, some steps are small, some are cracked and some are wiggly. But all in all, they’re steep. And the steepest, most challenging day of steps was the second day of our journey. No easing into it. Just start climbing!

Local lore says that there are 3,500 steps during this leg of the trek. A guide counted them once. I think he was lowballing that number so as not to discourage the trekkers.

The only encouraging break from the steps is, halfway up to Upper Ghorepani you get the first amazing glimpse of the snowy peak of Annapurna South. I mean, it does take 1,750 steps to get that first glimpse, and even then its only visible on a clear day. But then you only have another 1,750 steps to go. And hopefully, not too many mules are heading downwards, needing to get by, because there are some pretty narrow, tight spots along the route.

Poon Hill

So I would be lying if I told you the steps got better after that “Stairway to Ghorepani.” They do get less intense (for the most part) and, personally, even just after that one day of climbing, I felt stronger so the climbing did (sort of) become easier.

After the previous day’s climb, I would have been quite happy to never see a stone step again in my life (honestly it was exhausting and no, I am not being dramatic). But with the promise of a beautiful sunrise at Poon Hill, I found myself climbing, yet again, more steps. This time at 4:30 a.m. Because… You know… Sunrise.


It was actually pretty cool doing that trek in the darkness of the early morning hours. Little headlamp specks could be seen dotting their way up the mountain, looking like stars that had fallen from above to guide the way, along with the light from the moon. As the dark night sky started to fade away into the first greys of the morning light, a sense of urgency washed over me.

I did not wake up at 4:10 a.m. to still be walking up steps when the sun shone its bright little face over the mountains.

I made it though. With plenty of time to spare.

I was fortunate as well to be one of the first few people to get up there so, I had the pleasure of experiencing a calmness at the top that quickly disappeared as the rest of the trekkers made their way up. Poon Hill is a destination for many trekkers. Some simply do Poon Hill because it is a shorter four to five-day trek, while most add it in as a side stop on their way to A.B.C.  Once the sun is really close to rising over the mountains, Poon Hill is covered with trekkers who are there for the morning show (and possibly a cup of joe, a nice surprise to drink at the top).

The sunrise truly was spectacular though. There is a beautiful view from Poon Hill of the whole mountain range with snowy peaks visible in the distance and the wind whipping the snow around making the peaks look like soft serve ice cream cones. The sun popping up over the mountains provided for some stunning contrasts between light and dark and accentuated the blues of the surrounding mountains and sky.

Ghorepani to Tadapani

After the must-see sunrise at Poon Hill, we headed back down to Ghorepani for breakfast before continuing on to our next destination at Tadapani, known for its panoramic views of the mountains.

The hike to Tadapani was a lot more pleasant than the Stairway to Ghorepani. It was more of a steady increase and decrease in elevation and not as steep. This hike also took us through a rhododendron forest which is one of the most interesting things I’ve ever seen.

The trees themselves were twisted and warped and covered in moss. Not many trees were blooming while we were there but the few that did have the red and pink flowers on them were stunning. With the snowy mountains visible in the background, this hike was surreal for me. There’s a bit of a disconnect between seeing the mountains in the background, mountains that aren’t that far from where you are, and then walking through the eerie forest of rhododendrons, followed by hiking alongside cool rivers and through villages and farms.

Chhomrong to Himalaya

The route from Chhomrong to Himalaya was a beautiful and hot one. The first part of the day was completely out in the open, with no cover from the sun until we reached the village of Bamboo where, you guessed it, a bamboo forest provided cover from the hot, hot sun.

The bamboo forest was quite the sight to see. Tall stalks of green bamboo shot up amidst the old, warped rhododendron trees. With a waterfall on the opposite mountain, cascading down from the mist above, it was hard to believe how different the environment could be from one spot to the next.

We officially hit 2,900m in elevation. It was noticeably chilly up here and, with the proximity to the waterfalls, the cold was a damp one that got into my bones.

It took us this long to get here but we were finally at our last stop before trekking our way up to A.B.C. Although at this point the days had started melding into one and it was hard to remember where we were even just two nights ago.

Adventures

An Overview of My Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Somewhere along the way to Annapurna Base Camp (A.B.C.) I had an epiphany. I’m going to be thinking quite often to myself “what the fuck was I thinking.”

I actually couldn’t even tell you how many times I thought that during my trek to A.B.C. but it was at least once a day. Writing this, and looking back on the trek, I can’t help but think “what the fuck.”

All in all, I spent 10 days on the mountain with a Lebanese, an Israeli, a Brit, a Polish girl, three porters and one guide. The trek itself takes you 4130m (13,549 ft) to the base camp that is surrounded by the Annapurna Mountain Range, including Annapurna I, Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna South, Mount Machapuchhere (Fishtail)… Pretty much the whole Annapurna Mountain Range. There’s 3,500 stone steps climbed on the second day of the trek and approximately 160 kms traversed from start to finish.

No amount of squats can prepare you for this.

We had one hailstorm, two rainstorms, and a snowstorm while on the mountain, got up for three sunrises including the sunrise trek from Ghorepani to Poon Hill at 4:30 a.m., crossed 19 bridges that were either just rocks or tree branches laid out over a rushing stream, passed through a rhododendron forest and a bamboo forest, got stuck multiple times behind herds of goats, sheep and mules, and had a snowball fight at the top.

I got two blisters, 53 bug bites (yes I counted), sucked on by three leeches, and developed a sinus infection after reaching the top.

And when I look back on the trek, and read through what sounds like absolute misery, I am happy and proud of myself. And have nothing but joy at the memories, even the ones that sound horrendous like trekking with a sinus infection or accidentally popping the leech that had jumped into my boot (that actually still makes me squeamish).

Adventures

Hidden Temples of Kathmandu

I don’t know what it is about Nepal that has always fascinated me but when choosing where to go this April, Kathmandu seemed like the most logical place for me. After flying in over the Himalayas I knew I had made a good decision.

Before starting my trek to Annapurna Base Camp I decided to spend a few days in Kathmandu. Or “dustmandu” as the locals call it.

Kathmandu was a whirlwind three days for me, spent walking around the city, lost most of the times since street names are not a thing in Nepal, visiting the oodles of temples scattered around the streets.

There are so many temples to see in Kathmandu, the temples being the street markers that will guide you back home. My favourite discovery was coming upon the Seto Machhen-dranath Temple (Jan Bahal). This temple is hidden away, not directly on the streets of Kathmandu, so finding this gem was a true delight.

After already having had walked by and stopped at a handful of temples, I was admiring the beauty of one temple, surrounded by clay pots and people selling fruits and flowers amidst the dustiness of the city and the rubble from surrounding buildings that had been affected by the 2015 earthquake, when another tourist came over and informed me how to get to the Seto Machhen-dranath Temple.

“There’s another temple hidden beyond those walls,” she said. “Go around the back of this temple and walk through the blue archway.”

Had she not gone out of her way to tell me this, I probably never would have found that temple. So taking her advice, I went around back of the first temple at one of the many junctions in the city, passed by clay pots stacked up to my shoulders and went through the blue arch.

Coming out on the other side was like stepping through into a calm oasis amidst the craziness that is “dustmandu.”

Seto Machhen-dranath Temple is completely surrounded by buildings, tucked away in a courtyard, sheltering it from the dust and traffic outside.

The temple itself did not appear to suffer much damage from the earthquake and was surrounded by a beautiful large gate that appeared to protect it from the outside. There were many different little places to worship around the temple before entering the large iron gates to walk around Seto Machhen-dranath.

Inside the gates, the temple had doors on each of the four walls that people would touch before continuing around to the next door, walking all the way around until the returned to the entrance (or exit) of the temple.

It was remarkably quiet in this little courtyard, the noise of cars honking somewhere far off in the distance, the sounds of pigeons cooing and people murmuring being the primary sounds. So it comes as a bit of a shock when you walk back through the blue arch and in to the dusty streets of Kathmandu, motorbikes whipping by.

Adventures

What Was I Thinking?

For the two days leading up to my planned trip to Nepal, I was filled with dread, randomly crying and felt like puking because I was so scared. I had seven panic attacks in one day and took a half hour shower during which I spent 20 of those minutes sobbing. All I could think was “what the f**k was I thinking.” It would have been so much easier, and so much safer, for me to stay at home.

Saying goodbye to friends and family sucked. I felt like I was dying rather than travelling for an unknown period of time. My going away parties had a morbid, funeral, vibe to it.

It wasn’t until I spoke to friends who have taken similar journeys that I realized all of this, my fears and worries and dread, were normal. As one friend put it, you get used to living with the daily anxiety of the unknown. I don’t know if that was supposed to be comforting, but in a way, it was.

I’m not far into this trip (it hasn’t even been a full day yet in Kathmandu) but the panic attacks have subsided and I’m getting more and more excited for the unknown experiences and adventures I am bound to have over my next month in Nepal.

And who knows? Maybe I love it so much I extend my stay.

Adventures

Southeast Asia – The Boring Safety Stuff

Before heading over to Southeast Asia, I spent a solid month reading and taking notes on the Canadian Government’s Travel Advisory website. I researched the different countries I want to visit, and the different countries I may inadvertently go to, compiling more than 30 pages of notes about safety precautions, entry and exit requirements, and legal differences and customs in these countries.

Safety precautions for any country in the world will change based on a variety of factors, so I will not be including that in this post. However, below you can find a list (in alphabetical order) of the visa requirements, entry fees (if any), and currency per country I plan to visit. It’s boring, but important stuff to know.

Brunei

Currency: Brunei dollar (BND) – USD traveller cheques recommended; ATMs available
Consulate: Bandar Seri Begawan, 5 Floot, Jalan McArthur Building, No. 1, Jalan McArthur; T: 673 (2) 22-00-43
Visas: Tourist Visa Not Required – unnecessary for stays up to 14 days.

Cambodia

Currency: the riel (KHR) – USD widely accepted but only new and undamaged banknotes; traveller cheques accepted but not personal cheques and credit cards
Consulate: Phnom Penh, 27-29 Street 75, Sangkat Srah Chak, Khan Daun Penh; T: +855 023 430 813
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – may be purchased upon arrival; valid for 30 days, may be extended once.

  • $30 USD
  • two recent passport-size (2″x2″) photos
  • onward or return ticket, and proof of sufficient funds required

Guam

Currency: USD
Consulate: Pohnpei (See Palau)
Visas: Tourist Visa Not Required – unnecessary for US overseas territories.

Japan

Currency: yen (JPY) – credit cards accepted in major cities
Consulate: Tokyo, 3-38 Akasaka 7 – chome, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan, 107-8503; T: +81 (3) 5412 6200     –     Fukuoka, c/o Kyushu Electric Power Co., Inc. 1-82 Watanabe-dori 2-chome, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka, Japan, 810-8720; T: +81 (92) 726-6348     –     Hiroshima, c/o Chugoka Electric Power Co. Inc., 4-33 Komachi, Maka-ku, Hiroshima-shi, Hiroshima-ken, Japan, 730-8701; T: +81 (82) 246-0057    –     Nagoya, Nakato Marunouchi Building, 6F, 3-17-6, Marunouchi, Naka-ku, Nagoya-shi, Aichi-ken, Japan, 460-0002; T: +81 (52) 972-0450     –     Osaka, c/o Tsuda Sangyo Co. Ltd., 1-8-19, Hirabayashi Minami, Suminoe-ku, Osaka, 559-8550; T: +81 (6) 6681-0250     –     Sapporo, Canadian Place, Poseidon Maruyama 2F, 26-1-3 Odori Nishi, Chuo-ku, Sapporo, Japan, 064-0820
Visas: Tourist Visa Not Required

  • onward or return ticket, confirmed accommodation arrangements, and proof of sufficient funds

Entry Permits: maximum of 90 days; photographed and fingerprinted upon arrival

Laos

Currency: kip (LAK) – USD and Thai Baht widely accepted
Consulate: Vientiane, KM4, Thadeua Road, Watnak Village, Sisattanak District; T: +856 (0) 21 35 38 34     –     Bangkok (see Thailand)
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – may be obtained upon arrival.

  • $42 USD
  • two recent passport-size (2″x2″) photos

Entry Stamp: obtain upon arrival

Malaysia

Currency: rin ggit (MYR)
Consulate: Kuala Lumpar, 207 Jalan Tun Razak, 17 Floor, Menara Tan and Tan 50400; T: +60 3 2718 3333    –     Penang, 3007, Tingkat Perusahaan 5, Prai Industrial Park, 13600 Prai
Visas: Tourist Visa Not Required – unnecessary for stays up to 90 days
Port of Entry: required to register fingerprints

Myanmar (Burma)

Currency: kyat (MMK) – USD widely accepted but only new and undamaged banknotes; credit cards are rarely accepted and there are no ATMs; currency exchange available at Yangon International Airport
Consulate: Yangon, 65 Sule Pagoda Road, 9 Floor, Centerpoint Towers; T: +95 1 384 805     –     Bangkok (see Thailand)
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – obtain prior to arrival.

  • valid for 28 days

Port of Entry: use same port to enter and exit to avoid problems with immigration (Yangon International Airport)

Indonesia

Currency: Rupiah (IDR) – carry cash when visiting remote areas
Consulate: Jakarta, World Trade Centre, 6 Floor, JI. Jend Sudirman, Kav. 29, Jakarta 12920; T: +62 21 2550 7800     –     Bali, Jalan Tantular No. 32, Renon, Denpasar; T: 62 361 241 118
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – may be obtained upon arrival.

  • valid for visits less than 30 days
  • may be required to show return or onward tickets

Departure Fee: must be paid in cash – price varies

Nepal

Currency: rupee (NPR)
Consulate: Kathmandu, 47 Lal Darbar Marg, P.O. Box 3596; T: +977 1 444 1976
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – may be purchased upon arrival.

  • $40 USD for 30-day Visa; $100 USD for 90-day Visa
  • one recent passport-size (2″x2″) photo in colour

Palau

Currency: USD – ATMs available; credit cards widely accepted
Consulate: Pohnpei, H&E Enterprises Building, Kolonia, Phonpei, Micronesia; T: 691 320 5448
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – issued upon arrival.

  • valid for visits up to 30 days
  • required to show return or onward tickets

Departure Fee: $50 USD

Papua New Guinea

Currency: kina (PGK) – USD traveller cheques recommended; credit cards accepted at major hotels
Consulate: Port Moresby, Godwit Road, Waigani NCD; T: +675 325 9333     –     Canberra, Commonwealth Avenue, Canberra ACT, Australia 2600; T: +61 (2) 6270-4000
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – may be obtained upon arrival at Jacksons International.

  • onward or return ticket, and proof of sufficient funds required

Philippines

Currency: Philippine peso (PHP) – credit cards widely accepted; ATMs available in larger cities
Consulate: Manila, Floors 6-8, Tower 2, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City; T: +63 2 857 9000 / +63 2 857 9001     –     Cebu, RD Corporate Centre, 96 Gov. M.C. Cuenco Avenue, Cebu City 6000; T: +63 32 256 3320
Visas: Tourist Visa Not Required – unnecessary for stays up to 30 days.

  • must present an onward or return ticket

Departure Fee: 750 PHP – can be paid in local current of equivalent in USD (cash only)

Thailand

Currency: baht (THB)
Consulate: Bangkok, 990 Rama IV, Abdulrahim Place, 15 Floor, 10500, P.O. Box 2090, Bangkok 10501, Thailand; T: +66 0 2646 4300     –     Chiang Mia, 151 Super Highway, Tambon, Tahsala, Arnphur Muang, Chiang Mia, 5000; T: +66 0 5385 0147 / +66 0 5324 2292
Visas: Tourist Visa Not Required – unnecessary for visits less than 30 days; may re-enter within any 6-month period from the date of first entry for a cumulative duration not exceeding 60 days.
Entry Stamp: must be obtained from an immigration officer at the point of entry

Vietnam

Currency: Vietnamese dong (VND) – credit cards accepted at major hotels; ATMs available
Consulate: Hanoi, 31 Hung Vuong St. Hanoi; T: +84 (4) 3734-5000     –     Ho Chi Minh City, 9 Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi Street, District 1; T: +84 (8) 3827-9899
Visas: Tourist Visa Required – must be obtained prior to arrival; extensions may be obtained.
Entry Requirements: registration with local police upon arrival

Canada

Shambhala Travel Guide

Shambhala is tucked away in a picturesque valley on a farm surrounded by the Selkirk Mountain Range, about thirty minutes South from the small town of Nelson, BC. Stages can be discovered walking through the woods or floating down the river with the groovy sounds of the DJs or flashes of laser beams guiding you in the right direction.

Getting There

Shambhala by Air
If you are flying, the closest airport to fly into is the Castlegar Regional Airport (YCG), about half an hour northwest of the festival. Alternatively, the festival is about a four hour drive northwest of Kelowna International Airport (YLW), or a six hour drive southeast from Calgary International Airport (YYC).

 
Shambhala by Road
If you are driving, you will be entering Shambhala by a dirt road off Highway 3. There are a lot of winding, one lane mountain roads along the way so be alert for wild animals and fill up for gas before going into the festival. Salmo is the last town you will come across with gas stations, 6 kms away.

Rideshare is also an option for getting to the festival by road. Check out the Kootenay Rideshare board and the Facebook Shambhala rideshare group for possible lifts.

The Greyhound goes as far as Salmo, BC, which is still 6 kms outside of the festival.

Where to Stay

Shambhala is a camping music festival. There are very few restrictions as to where you are allowed to set up camp for the weekend and the Sunshine, Starlight and Meta Camp are all free areas. I recommend arriving early though as the areas closest to the festival grounds fill up fast.

If you do not need to camp with your car, you will be pointed to a parking spot from where you will haul your camping gear and festival glitter into your desired camp area for the weekend. Otherwise a car-camping decal must be bought. A decal can only be bought on-site and is sold on a first come first serve basis. Sunshine decals for a regular sized vehicle are $40, and $80 for an oversized vehicle. Starlight decals are $80 for a regular sized vehicle and $160 for an oversized vehicle.

Shambhalodging: Shambhalodging is the festival’s premium camping option, offering campsites for two in a wooded shaded area, with a reserved spot at the Shambhalodging parking.

Camp Clean Beats: Camp Clean Beats is the festival’s camping option for those who wish to have a clean and sober festival experience. Anyone entering this area must be sober. Spots go on a first come first serve basis, but the festival asks that you fill out the registration form in advance and email it to campcleanbeats@gmail.com.

Safe Spaces

Shambhala has become known as a festival with an incredibly progressive (and effective) harm reduction program. Different areas provide festival attendees with different services depending on what they need at that time.

The Sanctuary: Located by the medical tent, this is a calm area for attendees who are feeling overwhelmed at any point, for any reason. There are cushions to lie on, little tents to crawl into, tea and cookies available, colouring books and markers, and volunteers to speak with – if that’s what you want.

Photo by Ricardo Hubbs

Women’s Safe Space: This is an area in the festival similar to The Sanctuary, but it is accessible for women only. The volunteers there are all women and it aims to provide a spot for women to go if they are feeling vulnerable or uncomfortable at any point during the festival.

Outreach: Outreach are the volunteers that walk around the grounds, simply keeping an eye out for attendees. They make sure people are okay physically and, also educate attendees they come across for warning signs of a possible bad situation.

Consent is Sexy: While there aren’t really any written rules for Shambhala, there is a general understanding of respect for one another. You will see signs everywhere stating “consent is sexy” and this rule is absolutely followed, even down to asking permission to hug a stranger.

Education: Education seems to be a big part of the key to safety at Shambhala. ANKORS has a booth set up where attendees can go to test their drugs for the weekend. There is absolutely no judgment here and no requirement to hand in whatever it is you are testing. There is only encouragement to know what might be in the drugs, as well as to learn more about the different drugs circulating around and what harms they may have. There is also information about safe sex along with the necessary tools for safe sex (i.e. condoms).

Photo by Charlotte Dobre

NOTE: There has been plenty of debate surrounding a festival’s decision to provide attendees with professional drug testing. Providing attendees with the opportunity to test their drugs over the weekend is not the festival condoning the use of drugs. It is simply encouraging people to be safe and smart about what they decide to do during their time at a music festival.

For more information on ANKORS and safety at Shambhala see my chat with “Shambha-Mom” Britz Robins.

Food

Shambhala has a huge variety of delicious food options, although it can get quite expensive (as it is with most music festivals). From tacos to pad thai, to nachos to donuts, there is a good selection to satisfy your cravings. It is a little challenging finding vegetarian and vegan options, however there is one vendor that has a great non-meat soup and salad combo.

And don’t skip out on the donuts. Fried dough covered in sugar? You can’t go wrong with that for your late-night snack.

Beverages

Shambhala is a dry festival. There is no alcohol for sale at the festival and cars are searched upon entry for alcohol. This does not mean it’s lacking in refreshments. Virgin caesars and virgin margaritas can be purchased (the margaritas are quite tasty) and, Night Owl Coffee has some delicious options available from a local coffee shop in Nelson, BC, along with hot tea available to warm your bellies late at night.

My Advice

Arrive early! Even though there are no stages set up on the Wednesday night of the festival, consider buying the early arrival pass. With less people there, it gives you the opportunity to choose a better location for your camp site which can make the difference between a 10 minute walk and a 30 minute walk for an outfit change.

If this is your first Shambhala, make sure to hop on the Virgin Shambhala Train. A Shambassador wearing a conductors outfit will introduce you to the Shambhala rules, teach you firsthand about the number one family rule of “consent is sexy,” and take you on a fun dance tour through the festival, helping you to orient yourself with the different stages.

But hop off the train before it passes through the Fractal Forest. That is definitely a first-time experience you should save for night.

Be prepared for insane fluctuations in temperature. I cannot stress this enough. There is a reason you will see so many people in onesies, roaming around the grounds at night. Onesies are warm and you can layer them. While it can be hot enough to run around naked during the day, it can also get cold enough to see you’re breath at night.

That being said… Don’t be afraid to cool off in the river during the day! Not only is it a great spot to goof around and listen to music, but it is very refreshing in that hot summer sun.

Take advantage of the ANKORS booth. It’s a unique educational experience that is not readily available at most festivals.

Embrace the weird. You will see a lot of things that you are not used to seeing.

But don’t stare. That’s rude.

Don’t be afraid to dress up! People will spend months preparing their costumes for Shambhala so if you want to dress up you are in good company. But if that’s not your thing and you would rather run around in some very practical fleece, then that is okay too. Acceptance is a big theme at Shambhala.

Speaking of acceptance… Shambhafamily are a very big accepting group. Grant them the same courtesy and accept everyone for the side of themselves they are choosing to show at Shambhala that they cannot necessarily show in their daily lives.

Appreciate this acceptance. Appreciate where you are and who you are with. And learn to love yourself – there is an open-mindedness in this community that will help you with this.

Of course, leaving the beauty of Shambhala and returning back to reality will leave you in shambles. Bring some of your lessons and positive experiences from Shambhala back to the real world and maybe, we can make reality a better place.

Photo by Lindsay Donovan
Canada

Favourite Artists Heard At Shambhala

Shambhala Music Festival returned to Samlo Valley for its 19th year, bringing with it a lineup stacked with heavy bass, mad beats and hella funky sounds. Here are some of my favourite acts that I heard at this year’s Shambhala.

Beats Antique

Beats Antique was everything I hoped for and more. David Satori and Tommy Sidecar exhibited their talents on their instruments, playing drums and violin live for the crowd at Pagoda while their tracks spun on in the background. The pair played some of their older stuff, including “Egyptic” off their 2010 album “Blind Threshold,” and performed songs off their new album for the first time ever. Sidecar threw down an insane drum solo that left the whole crowd smiling before the duo showcased their new track with Russian singer Tatiana, whose ethereal voice was complemented perfectly by Satori’s violin. With incense floating in the air, the experience of listening to Beats Antique’s unique tribal fusion sound was enhanced. The highlight of the set though came when Satori let a unicorn jump on stage to perform some oh so magical dancing while the duo continued to play out their set. Dance moves fitting perfectly with the music, the unicorn made his way across the stage before collapsing into a fit of frenzy for his finale with Beats Antique.

 

Hermitude

It’s been a while since I’ve seen two artists so in sync with one another. Hermitude threw down a gnarly set Friday night at The Grove, somehow mixing “In The Jungle” from Disney’s “The Lion King” into Flume’s remix of their track “HyperParadise,” before Luke Dubs took to his keyboard to perform an insane solo cover of the track. Showcasing their unity, the boys unplugged their instruments, coming around to the front of the stage to perform live for the audience, truly demonstrating their skills as DJs and producers. Luke Dubs and Elgusto worked magic together up on The Grove stage, keeping the crowd dancing and grooving throughout the entirety of their set.

 

Opiuo

Maybe it’s because this was my introduction to the epicness that is the Fractal Forest but Opiuo played one of my favourite sets of the weekend. Throwing down a funky set that incorporated swing with bass, Opiuo took the crowd on a groovy journey throughout his entire 90-minute set. Jet lagged and coming straight from New Zealand, the Kiwi producer didn’t hold anything back, kicking it on the drums live for the crowd and bringing out a trumpet player to accentuate the funky tunes he was playing before mixing into jungle. I didn’t think it was possible to mix funk with drum & bass but Opiuo managed to do it beautifully.

 

CloZee

There’s only one word I can use to describe CloZee: badass. The French producer threw down a dope set that saw heavy bass mixed in with glitch-hop. CloZee truly showed that she is a force to be reckoned with, putting on one of the heaviest sets of the weekend. The female producer kept the bass pulsating across The Grove before mixing into “Wildcats” by Ratatat. A surprise guest appearance by EVeryman saw the pair paying tribute to the late Pumpkin before CloZee continued with her set, mixing in some new world sounds with her bass heavy performance.

 

The Gaff

The Gaff is one of the most talented DJs I have had the pleasure of seeing perform in a very long time. The British-Columbia native played his entire set using only vinyl, switching out LPs expertly to weave a groovy set for the crowd at Fractal Forest. It feels like such a treat nowadays to see someone spinning vinyl and it’s even more special when it is taking place in the magical atmosphere that is the Fractal Forest. While The Gaff was playing an incredible dance worthy set, it wasn’t uncommon to see many people standing still, absolutely mesmerized by what they were seeing The Gaff doing on his decks… Especially once he started scratching. The Gaff demonstrated his insane skills as a musician in the art of spinning a vinyl only set. Simply listening to his tracks does not do the artist justice, as a huge part of the musical experience with The Gaff is the show he puts on scratching and spinning.

 

Nora En Pure

Nora En Pure’s set at Pagoda was such a fantastic way to start the weekend off. Playing Friday evening, the Swiss DJ threw down a fun, dance-worthy deep house set. The female producer expertly took the crowd on a journey from deep house to tech house, channeling some DirtyBird vibes, prepping the crowd for Justin Martin’s set later that evening. Nora En Pure exhibited her ability to spin a set with a variety of genres before mixing into her well-known (and often played by other DJs) single “Come With Me.”

Canada

Five Favourite Moments From Shambhala

I’m still trying to process all the beautiful energy I felt at Shambhala Music Festival, so to help me cope with those post-Shambhala blues, I have put together a list of my five favourite moments from this year’s adventures.

1. Discovering the Fractal Forest

Discovering the Fractal Forest is like discovering a mythical creature. You have no idea what you are getting involved with until you are inside the forest, feeling the music and witnessing the madness firsthand. One of the most important things I was told by Shambhala Veterans was to avoid the Fractal Forest until I could experience it at night. And I am so glad I listened to them as my first time in the forest was mind-blowing. The stage was set up in a way that allowed festival-goers to completely lose themselves in the sights and sounds, while the primarily ghetto-funk sounds being spun there by the likes of A.Skillz, The Funk Hunters, The Gaff and DeFunk encouraged a fun vibe and an energetic atmosphere.

Not only did Fractal Forest have one of the best vibes of the weekend, with one of the most incredible set ups possible, but it was something for festival-goers to discover on their own. Stumbling upon the hidden stage with all its Star Wars beauty and funky sounds on the way to some of the other stages made for some of the best dance parties of the weekend.

2. Swimming in the river


Shambhala has a river that flows through the festival allowing attendees a slight reprieve from the heat of the day. It is a small river that flows straight from one of the glaciers, keeping it cool despite the intense heat in the valley during the August days. It’s common to see people sitting along the banks in the shade of the trees, soaking their feet in the cool river water throughout the day.

The Living Room Stage also happens to be set up on the beach right along the river. Many people bring floaties with them to the Living Room, setting up camp on top of their inflatable toys, floating nonchalantly down the river as the mellow beats of the Living Room DJs serenade them down the river. The BC mountains stand majestically in the background, overlooking the entire scene as people swim across the perfect bed of pebblestones. With the sun beating down on Shambhafam, many people swim across the river, making friends along the way before reaching the opposite bank where more friends are made.

And, while it seems to be more of a well-kept Vet secret, there is another river, beyond the banks, that is more secluded and requires a little bit of Veteran knowledge to get to. Although I did not find this little piece of paradise, I was told it holds a jumping log and is a small oasis within the Shambhala festival grounds.

3. Free Hugs

Shambhala is known for embracing the free-spirit of its festival attendees. Upon arriving into the festival, the first thing I was warned about were the free hugs.

“It’s kind of weird… Are you okay with weird?” the man checking my car said. “Are you okay with hugs? I don’t know what it is about this place but people seem to like to give each other hugs for no reason.”

I thought he was joking.

I can’t tell you how many times I was at shows or walking around the grounds and someone dressed up as a tiger or a panda would come over to give me a hug… Simply because they felt the need to share their love for the world. Dancing solo at Fractal Forest, I received one of the best hugs of my entire life by an individual whom I will never know. He was dressed head to toe in woolies, with a scarf covering his entire face. Mid dancing he turns to me and opens his arms. Upon seeing me nod in consent, he then pulls me in for a hug. We danced together in a beautiful embrace for a solid minute before he continued on his merry way.

Free hugs was such a huge part of the festival. People connecting with one another in a way that does not happen anywhere else, and in the most respectful way possible. It was absolutely beautiful.

4. Beautiful people

The people at Shambhala are fucking weird. And kind. And respectful. And caring. It truly is the people who attend this festival that make it so wonderful. The energy at Shambhala is unlike any other.

People at Shambhala do what they want, when they want, with zero fucks given for what others are thinking about them. There seems to be an unspoken understanding between Shambhafamily that this is a safe place where you can be the most true to yourself. And this is possibly the most beautiful thing about the festival. People are the truest that they could possibly be to themselves. No one cares and no one judges one another for doing what they are comfortable doing.

5. Late night tea

Shambhala is a dry festival meaning there is no alcohol that can be purchased on the grounds. This was the first festival I have ever attended where this was a rule, and, full disclosure, I like to drink so I was very interested to see how this would affect my experience at Shambhala.

I was pleasantly surprised with it though. The festival seemed to be a lot more in control. There were less rowdy people that were being offensive and aggressive. Removing alcohol from the equation made the whole festival experience much more chilled out.

This also meant that, at the end of the night, instead of having a boozy night cap, I wound up at Night Owl coffee in downtown Shambhala for tea. Every night, on my way back to my tent, I would stop in for a peppermint tea. With the temperature fluctuating from sweat in every crevasse of your body during the day to seeing your breath at night, the tea worked wonders to warm the body up and soothe the belly, helping prepare the body for the next day of the festival.

I never thought I would insist on having tea at a festival or after a night of dancing, but after stopping for peppermint tea at the Night Owl every night, I think I am going to make peppermint tea a must-have after a night of dancing.

Bonus

The theme camps: with their insane set ups including a bouncy castle for Shambhafam to play in, and hosting their own parties every single night; the sunrises: they came in hot and early but announced a new adventure for the day

Canada

Finding My WayHome

Melding the best of Coachella and Bonnaroo, WayHome Music and Arts Festival is a refreshing change for music festival lovers. Returning to Burl’s Creek, just north of Toronto for its sophomore year from July 21-24, the festival brought a much needed chill festival vibe to the city’s music lovers.

The three day camping festival began early, on Thursday night, with a performance by Toronto band The Darcys during the ArtWalk, allowing attendees to enter the grounds a day early to visit and admire the art installations that were set up in the grounds for the weekend.

This year’s festival saw a heavily filled lineup of top Canadian talent including Half Moon Run, Arcade Fire, Shad, and Metric. The festival once again encompassed a variety of musical genres, with Major Lazer and Keys N Krates bringing their electronic beats, Rae Sremmurd and Vince Staples covering the hip hop aspect of the lineup, and Third Eye Blind, The Killers and LCD Soundsystem providing the soundtrack for festival goers born in the 90s to sing along with.

Utilizing the grounds to its full capacity, the four stages were thoughtfully set up to avoid any sound bleeding between stages. Once again, the WayAway stage proved to be a hidden gem in the grounds. Tucked away among a grove of trees, the picturesque stage not only provided relief from the heat for fans, but also saw some of the best performances of the weekend including Marian Hill’s unique electro-jazzy sound and The Paper Kites mellow folky tunes.

The heat was extreme this year but the well organized festival ensured attendees could stay hydrated with free water refill stations provided throughout the grounds, along with free Vitamin Water. The cashless RFID wristband system implemented this year allowed attendees to simply swipe their wristbands at vendors and alcohol tents, giving them a means to quickly purchase items.

While some of the art installations were reminiscent of other big American festivals that I’ve attended, including the balloon train from Coachella and the flags from the grounds at Mysteryland, there were many unique pieces for fans to stumble upon and discover throughout the weekend.

The festival’s signature “W” structure welcomed WayHomies into the grounds every day while the “I Feel You” flower arch became the motto of the weekend for many. However I’d still love to see more unique, random art installations. The event is billed as a music and arts festival and the art component could have been stronger.

The vibe of the festival was very laid-back, many people appearing to go with the flow as they explored the grounds and what it had to offer. Hammocks hung from trees, with fans watching shows from the comfort of swinging a few inches off the grounds, and Muskoka chairs were set up by the WayBright stage for attendees to rest their weary feet.

Although there was no silent disco this year (at least none this girl could find), the festival afterparties were rampant in the campgrounds, with newfound friends staying up until all hours of the morning dancing and reminiscing on the days’ events.

The first official full day of the festival saw the talented Gary Clark Jr. rip his guitar anew, shredding apart the WayHome stage, while LCD Soundsystem took to the stage later in the day to bring their unique and classic electro-pop sound under the starry night sky. Matt and Kim closed out the evening with their fun indie pop sound at the WayBold stage, guarded by the two unknown, black and white portraits framing the stage. Toronto favourites Keys N Krates threw down an epic electronic set that kept the crowd dancing and the totems bouncing to close down the WayBright stage.

Saturday saw 90s favourites Third Eye Blind performing some of their classic tunes such as “Semi-Charmed Life” midday at the WayHome stage, while Arcade Fire closed out the stage with an epic fireworks show to their hit “Wake Up.” Of course, one of the highlights from Saturday was Chet Faker’s groovy set that saw the talented Australian producer jumping from keyboard to synth to vocals, to perform some of his classics along with some of his newer sensual songs like “Gold.”

By the final day of the festival, the sun and extreme heat had taken its toll on many people, but BØRNS brought fans back to life with an early and energetic set at WayBold. Famous sisters Haim characteristically bantered with one another during their performance at the WayHome stage, following Stars’ beautifully quirky performance and preceding the final show of the weekend by The Killers. The Killers kept the crowd dancing and singing along throughout the entirety of their performance, shooting confetti into the crowd for one final festival pump up.

Many people that I spoke with had qualms about the lineup lacking in a lot of big name, popular artists this year. But it was nice to see so much Canadian talent at a Canadian based festival. It provided attendees with the opportunity to discover so much new music and some incredible up and coming talent. I will definitely be following a number of the lesser known stellar acts that I was fortunate enough to be introduced to.

Organizers appeared to have worked out many of the kinks from the inaugural year to execute a well-planned and top notch event for their return to Burl’s Creek. Taking ideas from the more successful parts of some of the best festivals in the world guaranteed attendees an awesome experience. Most importantly, the mellow atmosphere provided WayHomies with the opportunity to attend a large scale music and arts festival, easily accessible to the city of Toronto, with a vibe that is unlike any other festival in the area. And because of that, I look forward to heading home again #soon.